Washer and Dryer Upkeep


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In addition to ensuring clean, dry clothes, the maintenance of dryer and washer can assist prevent flooding and fires. Maintenance, fortunately, does not necessitate any specific skills or equipment. Here’s everything you need to know about keeping your washer and dryer in good working order.

Proper Way of Washing Your Clothes


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Most of us believe we know how to clean our garments, yet frequent errors can cause the washer to break down or, worse, generate leaks that cause expensive water damage. Make sure you’re doing laundry correctly before you begin your next load.

Begin by ensuring that your washer is a minimum of four inches distant from the wall. If your washer is too close, it may produce kinks in the hoses, leading to cracks and flooding. Next, make sure the washer is level by applying pressure to its corners. During the spin cycle, an unbalanced washer might vibrate, jump, or even move across the floor, harming the machine, the floor, or both.

When you are ready to begin loading, you will also need to be cautious. Avoid loading the washer with too many clothes and fill it with the right amount of water for the load size. Overfilling or underfilling the washer can result in flooding, and using the improper amount of water can reduce its efficiency.

Finally, use the appropriate detergent for your machine. Use high-efficiency detergent if you have a high-efficiency machine (look for brands marked HE). The sorts of detergent your washer requires to work at its best should be specified in your owner’s manual. It will also advise you on the amount of detergent to use. Don’t go beyond the amount stated. Too much detergent can lead to wear and tear, residue, and even flooding in the washer.

Remove wet garments as quickly as possible after each load to avoid mold, mildew, and musty odors. You should also keep the lid or door of the washer open between loads to allow the machine to dry out. If your washer is the front-load type, wipe out the rubber seal to get rid of any water or residue.

Regular Cleaning of Washer


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If your clothes are soiled, your washer will not clean them. Clean your machine on a regular basis, beginning with the lint filter. The lint filter, which is usually found in the washer’s middle column (the agitator tube), can collect gunk and reduce the machine’s efficiency.

Move on to the drum once it’s clean. You can utilize baking soda and vinegar or buy a washing machine cleaner and follow the manufacturer’s instructions. If you prefer the DIY option, fill your empty washer with two cups of vinegar and run a regular cycle on the hot water setting. After that cycle is over, add 1/2 cup of baking soda to the drum and run a hot water cycle. After the second rotation is done, wipe the drum clean and let it dry.

Regardless if you have a top-load or front-load type of washer, either way works effectively. If you have a front-loading washer, though, you will need to wipe the gasket with a cloth moistened with vinegar.

Repeat the method once a month to avoid getting mold. This will also keep the washer smelling fresh.

Take Control of Your Washer

Leaks caused by cracked or broken hoses are the most common cause of water damage. Inspect the hoses at least once a month to reduce your danger. Check for leaks around the hose ends. Any with cracks should be replaced. All hoses should be replaced every three to five years, regardless if they seem to be in good condition.

How to Dry Properly


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There is a correct and incorrect technique of drying your garments. The improper settings can cause your dryer to break down. Save the high heat setting for towels, blankets, and other heavy textiles. As for the lighter ones, use the delicate option to protect your garments and your dryer.

An overloaded or underloaded dryer can also result in unneeded wear and tear. If your dryer is overloaded, it will take more time drying the load. In contrast, when you run in underload, the dryer will still run a complete cycle to dry the clothing, but you will theoretically be drying more loads because the drum will not be filled.

Finally, avoid using dryer sheets because they can leave combustible residue behind. It can probably cause a fire if a spark ignites the residue. Another fire threat is when dryer sheets become caught in the dryer vent. Make your own dryer sheets by soaking a terry cloth with vinegar instead of buying them.

Keeping the Dryer Squeaky-Clean


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According to the US Fire Administration, roughly 2,900 dryer-related fires occur each year, resulting in five deaths, 100 injuries, and $35 million in property damage. Administration of Fire. Small, fine fibers that harbor the dryer or the vent is responsible for more than a third of the fires. Spend a few minutes cleaning your lint screen after each load to lessen your risk.

To do so, just remove the dryer’s screen and wipe away the collected fibers. Every month, include a step and using a soapy, warm water, wash the screen. Alternatively, put it in the dishwasher. Fabric softeners can accumulate potentially flammable residue on the screen over time, posing a fire hazard and lowering the dryer’s effectiveness. The residue is removed by washing it often.

Remove the lint screen and vacuum the slot where it sits every three months at the very least to give your dryer a thorough cleaning. If your dryer has one, vacuum the trap as well.

DIY: Hardwood Floor Refinishing


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Refinishing hardwood floors takes some effort, but it is well worth it. Hardwood flooring increases the value of your property. It also provides a timeless appeal that complements any décor.

This project is a terrific way to make a space feel brand new, whether you are renovating an old house or just searching for a method to liven up your current residence. Examine the state of your floors. You might be able to buff and apply a new coat of varnish if you only have minor scratches and dings or a dull finish. Even if your floors are in desperate need of a makeover, refinishing hardwood floors is a simple and enjoyable do-it-yourself project that may save you a lot of money.

To begin, how much does it set you back to sand and refinish hardwood floors on your own? Expect to pay less than $500 per 275 square feet if you DIY your hardwood floors per square foot. The typical price range is from $1,000 to $2,400. Renting sanding equipment as well as purchasing sanding pads, wood stains, brushes, and finish are all included in the overall cost.

Is refinishing or replacing hardwood flooring less expensive?

Refinishing hardwood floors is almost always less expensive than replacing them. With the latter, you’d be paying not only for the new wood but also for the work involved in tearing out and hauling away the old.

1. Cleaning the Floor


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  • Take all of the furniture out of the room and saturate the floor in a hardwood flooring cleaner or a homemade solution of 10:1 water and white vinegar.
  • Use a terry-cloth mop or a towel wrapped around the head of a mop to gently wipe the floor.
  • Keep the room you’re sanding dust-free by closing the windows and doors.

2. Preparing the Room

  • Hand-sand the perimeter of the room and any crevices that the buffer can’t reach with 180-grit sandpaper.
  • Rub each board with the grain 4 to 6 inches away from the baseboard until a powder forms as the finish dulls.

3. Sanding the Floor Finish


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  • Use a maroon buffing pad on the buffer and do not forget to wear a dust mask.
  • Move the buffer across the floor from side to side, with a 6-inch gap between each course following the grain’s path.
  • As you go, the old finish disintegrates into powder, making it easier to see where you have covered.
  • Always keep the buffer moving, but vacuum the pad every 5 minutes or so.

4. Vacuuming

  • Allow 10 to 15 minutes for the powder to settle in the room.
  • Replace the vacuum filter with a new and clean one. Using a felt-bottomed attachment, sweep the floor.
  • Sweep through the flooring strips to remove any powder that has harbored between the boards.
  • Use a microfiber cloth to dry-tack the floor with the grain.

5. Start with the Edges

  • Wear booties over your shoes and a respirator with organic vapor canisters over your nose and mouth.
  • Pour some strained finish into a small plastic container after straining the finish through a cone filter into a clean plastic watering can without a sprinkler head.
  • Paint a 3-inch-wide stripe alongside the baseboards closest to your exit door.
  • You will have lap marks if the edge of the stripe starts to dry. So after 10 minutes, stop and move on to the next level.

6. Roll-Out the Rest


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  • Apply a 1-inch-wide stripe of finish to the grain. Pour out only as much as you can distribute in the span of 10 minutes.
  • Apply the finish grain-side down and then across. Use a long-handled roller with a 14-inch nap cover for this.
  • Work swiftly and overlap each pass to maintain a moist edge.
  • After some minutes, apply another coat of finish to the edge, then pour and roll for 10 minutes more. Repeat until the entire floor is coated.
  • Wait about 3 hours before repainting and a week before replacing furnishings.

Energy-Efficient Fridge to Keep Your Cool


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You might not notice it but your refrigerator has a hefty job. It is in charge of preserving what you store in it. At the right temperature, your kids’ milk for their cereal meal or your favorite food that is likely to go bad quickly will be definitely safe to consume.

You are too worried about your perishable food spoiling rapidly so it is practical to store them all in your freezer and you think that a fully-loaded freezer is the most conducive to efficiency. But there are many additional strategies to keep your refrigerator running at peak performance.

Here are several ways you can rely on to make your freezer work at A1 efficiency:

Fridge and Room Temperature

Sometimes during the summer, your mood shifts as the heat can either be vexatious or pleasurable—if the cold bothers you more. Your fridge experiences the same mood swing depending on the room temperature. The temperature of the refrigerator may fluctuate with summer or winter as the room temp cools off or heats it up.

The right temperature margin as per U.S. Food and Drug Administration is 40 degrees Fahrenheit or lower. Make use of an additional thermometer. Keep in the center of your fridge’s middle shelf. Ensure it sticks to the designated margin for safe food storage.

Gasket Havoc


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Gaskets are used to seal gaps at refrigerator door jambs and headers. Obviously, the purpose of gaskets is to prevent the cold from exiting. If the door gasket is damaged; gapped or torn, resulting in air leakage, it will be hard for your fridge to function well in maintaining the right temperature. This will definitely cause you a higher energy bill on the next reading. You do not want that. So it is best to always check on the door gasket for damages.

Allow Enough Room

Allow enough space for a fridge to do its function by allowing air to flow around its outer—at least one inch on each side. If you are not able to do so, chances are higher energy bills or worse, the appliance could fail to work properly.

Make Food Items Breathe


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We have discussed the importance of airflow around your fridge’s exterior. Now let’s talk about the inside. It is also important for your food items to have the proper airflow. Pack the items closely not squeezed together. In this way, each item is kept colder.

Keep an Eye on Spill and Spoilage


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Prevent spills, especially from raw meat juices as they contain harmful bacteria. These juices may drip onto ready-to-eat food and eventually contaminate it with bacteria. Defrost meat in a container with a cover and place it on the lower shelf. Spoilage bacteria can grow rapidly in cold spaces such as your fridge. So try to keep an eye on spoilages and remove the item at once.

Regular Coil Cleaning

The coil is usually situated on the lower part of the fridge. If dirt is harbored on the condenser coil, energy consumption will likely increase and equipment could fail. Cleaning it regularly will help the fridge perform efficiently. To do so, just turn off the refrigerator and clean it using a vacuum or a brush.